Buon Natale da Venezia
Post 4 (the big finale!) of our trip to Venice.
Post 1: Venice ~ La Serenissima
Post 2: Burano ~ In Living Color
Post 3: Venice ~ A Little of This, A Little of That
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24 December ~ Christmas Eve
After cajoling everyone up for an early rise on Saturday, we enjoyed a more leisurely start to the day. We left for the vaporetto by late morning.
The view from the vaporetto ~
Back at Piazza San Marco. We spent a large portion of the day here. To start, we ascended the campanile.
Plaque commemorating the 400th anniversary of Galileo's introduction of the telescope to the Venetian Senate and the reigning Doge on 21 August 1609.
Back down to the square.
Visited the Doge's Palace
There were a few so-called "Lion's Mouth" mail slots like this around the city for those who wished to accuse fellow citizens of crimes and misdemeanors.
The sign for Great Council chamber stated that, at 53m wide by 25m long (1,325m2), the room "is not only the largest and most majestic chamber in the Doge's Palace but also one of the largest rooms in Europe." It's big, for sure. But I had to wonder: is that really true? Larger than concert halls?
All it took was a mention to send Karl off to the Googles to investigate. Boston Symphony Hall, with a seating capacity of 2,625, is 22.9m wide and 38.1m long (872.5m2). By contrast, the halls here in Prague have far less seating: Smetana Hall in the Municipal House seats about 1,250, and the Rudolfinum's capacity is 1,148. The Berliner Philharmonie is a funky shape but closer to Boston's room for capacity (2,440). Couldn't find dimensions for any of those halls, however, we did find some for Vienna's Musikverein, which is 48.8m long by 19.1m wide (932m2) and seats 1,700 plus 300 standing.
So. If we leave places of worship out of the conversation, it seems like a plausible claim. (And now I'll climb back out of the rabbit hole.)
I read it was the largest oil painting. I'm just going with it.
Ducked back to the flat for a little rest before our evening plans. Karl, Ben, and I settled into some seats for the ride when suddenly Garrett — who, at that time, was standing near the bow — started gesturing to us to look at the boat heading our way.
Yet again, I missed the picture. He looked pretty much like this:
(It may seem silly to call attention to this other tourist we kept encountering, but he was so doofy when we first saw him — so willfully in denial of basic decorum — that he became something of a mascot for our family. So, enjoy these siting notices. Or tolerate them. Or simply ignore.)
We found some unobtrusive seats in the basilica and attended a Christmas Eve evening mass.
25 December ~ Christmas Day
Our final morning in Venice. I got up to stroll the canal near us, capture a few parting shots.
Suitcase wheels contribute a constant din to the overall soundscape of Venice. It's striking how many tourists there are in Venice, an estimated 60,000 per day. By contrast, there are 55,000 residents in the historic city. So we tourists stand out.
"With a shrinking population and in a state of elegant decay," Rick Steves noted, "Venice survives on the artificial respirator of tourism."
That's one way to view it. But another perspective fears that tourism is killing the Floating City. Some measures have been enacted to stem the deleterious effects of all us visitors. (Okay, okay, we'll get out of here!)
After opening the token presents we brought and packing up, we headed out to grab some breakfast off of Campo San Geremia.
Gathered our things and headed off to collect our rental car.
But not before we had one more siting ...
Post 1: Venice ~ La Serenissima
Post 2: Burano ~ In Living Color
Post 3: Venice ~ A Little of This, A Little of That
* * * * *
24 December ~ Christmas Eve
After cajoling everyone up for an early rise on Saturday, we enjoyed a more leisurely start to the day. We left for the vaporetto by late morning.
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| Ponte delle Guglie, just around the corner from our flat |
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| Market stands on Rio TerĂ¡ St. Leonardo |
The view from the vaporetto ~
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| Another look at Lorenzo Quinn's Support |
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| Humans of Venice, no. 8 |
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| Christmas Eve on the Grand Canal |
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| Babbi Natale (Fathers Christmas) on paddleboards |
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| Vaporetto en route to next ferry terminal. |
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| Arriving at San Toma' |
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| Gondolier Santa |
Back at Piazza San Marco. We spent a large portion of the day here. To start, we ascended the campanile.
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| It has an elevator! Feels like a little cheating, but we'll take it. |
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| St. Mark's from above |
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| The Doge's Palace |
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| Allargava gli orizzonti dell'uomo: "He expanded the horizons of man." |
Plaque commemorating the 400th anniversary of Galileo's introduction of the telescope to the Venetian Senate and the reigning Doge on 21 August 1609.
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| Piazza San Marco and beyond |
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| Santa Maria della Salute |
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| Chiesa di San Giorgio Maggiore in the Venetian Lagoon |
Back down to the square.
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| Basilica di San Marco |
Visited the Doge's Palace
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| "For secret denunciations" |
There were a few so-called "Lion's Mouth" mail slots like this around the city for those who wished to accuse fellow citizens of crimes and misdemeanors.
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| Ceiling of the staircase into the palace |
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| Rooms inside are outrageously ornate. |
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| Senate Chamber |
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| Chamber of the Great Council |
The sign for Great Council chamber stated that, at 53m wide by 25m long (1,325m2), the room "is not only the largest and most majestic chamber in the Doge's Palace but also one of the largest rooms in Europe." It's big, for sure. But I had to wonder: is that really true? Larger than concert halls?
All it took was a mention to send Karl off to the Googles to investigate. Boston Symphony Hall, with a seating capacity of 2,625, is 22.9m wide and 38.1m long (872.5m2). By contrast, the halls here in Prague have far less seating: Smetana Hall in the Municipal House seats about 1,250, and the Rudolfinum's capacity is 1,148. The Berliner Philharmonie is a funky shape but closer to Boston's room for capacity (2,440). Couldn't find dimensions for any of those halls, however, we did find some for Vienna's Musikverein, which is 48.8m long by 19.1m wide (932m2) and seats 1,700 plus 300 standing.
So. If we leave places of worship out of the conversation, it seems like a plausible claim. (And now I'll climb back out of the rabbit hole.)
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| Tintoretto's Il Paradiso (1588-92) — largest oil painting in the world |
I read it was the largest oil painting. I'm just going with it.
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| Clock tower on the square |
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| Bridge of Sighs |
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| Should you lose your signal. |
Ducked back to the flat for a little rest before our evening plans. Karl, Ben, and I settled into some seats for the ride when suddenly Garrett — who, at that time, was standing near the bow — started gesturing to us to look at the boat heading our way.
 |
| Guy in the Green Jacket! Spotting #3 |
Yet again, I missed the picture. He looked pretty much like this:
(It may seem silly to call attention to this other tourist we kept encountering, but he was so doofy when we first saw him — so willfully in denial of basic decorum — that he became something of a mascot for our family. So, enjoy these siting notices. Or tolerate them. Or simply ignore.)
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| Hello, Ben |
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| Piazza San Marco by night |
We found some unobtrusive seats in the basilica and attended a Christmas Eve evening mass.
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| Inside the basilica. Photo source here. |
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| 4/4 smiling! It's the Christmas miracle! |
25 December ~ Christmas Day
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| Morning on Canale di Cannaregio |
Our final morning in Venice. I got up to stroll the canal near us, capture a few parting shots.
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| Ponte Tre Archi (Bridge of Three Arches) |
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| We weren't the only ones leaving. |
Suitcase wheels contribute a constant din to the overall soundscape of Venice. It's striking how many tourists there are in Venice, an estimated 60,000 per day. By contrast, there are 55,000 residents in the historic city. So we tourists stand out.
"With a shrinking population and in a state of elegant decay," Rick Steves noted, "Venice survives on the artificial respirator of tourism."
That's one way to view it. But another perspective fears that tourism is killing the Floating City. Some measures have been enacted to stem the deleterious effects of all us visitors. (Okay, okay, we'll get out of here!)
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| Door to our flat |
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| Looking from our door down to the Canal di Cannaregio |
After opening the token presents we brought and packing up, we headed out to grab some breakfast off of Campo San Geremia.
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| And, of course, a cuppa. |
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| You can usually feel good about a place where the locals congregate. |
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| Merry Christmas! |
Gathered our things and headed off to collect our rental car.
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| Dashing off for the next part of our holiday adventure. |
But not before we had one more siting ...
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| Four times in four days! |
One more spotting, from our perch in the front seat of the bus heading off the island. Merry Christmas, GGJ. And thanks for the laughs. đŸ˜„
Next stop: Ljubljana, Slovenia!
I keep thinking to myself that it just couldn’t be as beautiful as I remembered - then I see photos like yours that prove it was even more beautiful than my memory allows.
ReplyDeleteYou and Scott will get back there. ❤️
DeleteWhat a wonderful collection of memories. Just beautiful.
ReplyDeleteThanks, Mom!
Delete